Where to base yourself
Monterey. The most practical base, with the widest range of hotels, the aquarium, whale-watching boats and restaurants within walking distance.
Pacific Grove. A quiet Victorian seaside town next to Monterey with good-value inns and a lovely shoreline walk.
Carmel-by-the-Sea. Romantic and expensive, with small inns, fine restaurants and the beach at the foot of the main street. Closest to Point Lobos and Big Sur.
Big Sur. A handful of lodges, cabins and campsites among the redwoods and on the cliffs, from rustic to very luxurious. Book far ahead.
Food & drink
Seafood is the thing: clam chowder samples along Fisherman’s Wharf, calamari, sand dabs, Dungeness crab in season and oysters. Carmel has the area’s most ambitious restaurants and dozens of wine-tasting rooms pouring Monterey County pinot noir and chardonnay. In Big Sur the few restaurants trade on their cliff-top views; they are pricey and close early, so carry a picnic.
Money-saving and safety tips
- A California State Parks day-use ticket bought at one Big Sur park is usually accepted at the others on the same day — keep the receipt.
- Cycling or walking into 17-Mile Drive and Point Lobos avoids the vehicle fee.
- Never turn your back on the ocean. Large “sneaker” waves and cold water make these beaches dangerous for swimming.
- Stay on marked trails: cliff edges crumble, and poison oak is common.
- Keep at least 15 m (50 ft) from sea otters and seals, and do not fly drones in the marine sanctuary or state parks.
Sample plans
One day
- Morning at the Monterey Bay Aquarium
- Lunch on Cannery Row or the wharf
- 17-Mile Drive to Carmel
- Sunset on Carmel Beach
Two days
- Day one as above
- Early start for Point Lobos
- Drive Big Sur to Bixby Bridge, Pfeiffer Big Sur and McWay Falls, returning to Carmel
Three days
- Days one and two as above
- A morning whale-watching cruise
- Afternoon in Pacific Grove and Carmel Mission
Where to stay in Big Sur & Monterey
Monterey has the most rooms and the easiest parking; Carmel is prettier and closer to Big Sur. For one unforgettable night, stay in Big Sur itself, where lodging is limited and booked months ahead.
